Have a Holly Jolly Christmas
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Deck the Halls With a Few Handy Hints
Have a Holly Jolly Christmas
Monday, November 19, 2007
A Little Spring Before Winter
To get away from these chilly Novemeber nights, and to satisfy my gardening woes, I decided to post a little something to help drive us through these winter months and give us gardeners something to look forward to!
A Growing Guide for RosesI have a few great tips that will make your roses prosper in the spring. First, it is essential to have the perfect location for your roses. Be sure to choose an area in full sunlight, a location with approximately 6-8 hours of sun per day, as well as one that is open and airy required for good air circulation. Plant your roses in well-drained soil, seeing as roses do not like "wet feet!" You must dig the soil to a depth of eighteen inches, and then cover the ground with approximately two inches of peat moss as well as a layer of composted manure. At the time of planting, be sure to add 100 grams of 12-4-8 Rose Food to one square meter. (rememeber: roses are heavy feeders of magnesium and iron, nutrients necessary for chlorophyll production and leaf development).
NOTE: Climbing roses should not be placed on a north-facing wall.
Planting of Rose Bushes:
Dig a hole of sufficient size to accommodate the root system of the container rose. Next, gently remove the rose from the container, being careful not to injure the root system. Be sure to set the plant deep enough so that after the soil is leveled, the graft union is one and a half centimeters below the soil level. Then you can back fill the soil firmly around the root system. After planting, water the plant well to set the soil firmly around the roots. You can add two inches of mulch on top of the soil, but be sure to shallowly cultivate the mulch between the plants to help retain soil moisture around the roots. Do not plant rose bushes any closer than eighteen inches apart.
Fertilizing Roses:
After the growth is well under way, feed roses with one or two feedings of Rose Food during the growing season. This should be evenly distributed over the soil surface and worked into the soil with a cultivator. The last feeding should be done no later than the end of July to reduce the chance of winter-kill. During the growing season, rose plants showing deficiencies in their leaves or generally lack vigor, can be fed with a fertilizer of 24-18-16 (Miracle Grow for Roses or Iron Plus) for immediate recovery.
Pruning Bush Roses:
Newly purchased roses usually do not require pruning at planting time. During the growing season, do not let the blooms go to seed. Faded flowers should be removed immediately. Early in the summer, cut the flowers with a long stem, leaving only two to three leaves close to the old wood. As the season advances, cut the flowers with a shorter stem. Each spring, after the roses are removed from their winter protection, the following pruning procedures should be carried out:
1. Remove all broken or injured branches back to solid healthy wood.
2. Cut off all weak growth, leaving only four or five of the healthiest, strongest branches.
3. Then cut back these branches to five to six inches long, leaving two to three buds on each branch. The cuts should be made clean and slanted one inch above the buds.
Remember: A strong pruning in the spring will result in bigger and more roses during the season. Roses which are not well pruned will produce masses of blooms in June, but very small and very few blooms later in the season.
Of course, I must throw in a bit of winter talk in this post! However, it is important for your roses to have efficient protection during the winter months.
- for Hybrid Teas and Floribundas: When the weather turns very cold, before the heavy frost, the roses should be cut back to approximately two feet from the crown (knee height). All the leaves should be cleaned away and the soil should be built up against the crown of the plants. Rose collars are very handy for this purpose, as they will hold the soil around the crown.
- For Climing Roses: Climbing roses should be built up around the crown as well. In very cold locations, (unfortunately Canada), it is recommended that the branches be tied together and protected by covering with burlap or similar material. Do NOT use plastic.
- For Shrub Roses: Hardy shrub roses do not need the special pruning and winter protection as described for the other roses.
**If there is any other question about growing roses, feel free to post a question in the comments, and I'll be sure to answer you back. Hopefully, this guide will help keep you on the right track! --Good Luck Fellow Gardeners--
Friday, November 9, 2007
Keeping Your Trees Warm for the Winter
Monday, October 29, 2007
A Little Halloween Decor
2. Pumpkin carving can prove to be a very easy and traditional way to attract witches, gouhls, goblins and ghosts! Picking your pumpkin is a very important part in achieving your jack-o-lantern look. You need to choose a pumpkin that will suite what you want to carve on it. Pick pumpkins that are uniformly orange (which indicates that it is ripe), as well as pumpkins which have no bruising or visible damage (bruised pumpkins have a shortened life span).
**Make sure when transporting your pumpkin that you do NOT hold it by the stem because it can easily break.
Large pumpkin
Mum in nursery pot
Disposable cloths or paper towels
Petroleum jelly
Carving items for pumpkin such as a kitchen knife, jar lid or ice pick
Place the base of the nursery pot over the pumpkin and gently score the edges of the pumpkin to mark the width of the mum pot. Cut out the top of the pumpkin using the scored edges from the width of the mum pot, discarding the cap and the stem of the pumpkin. Scoop out the insides of the pumpkin. (Note: You may wish to save the seeds to toast later.) Using the ice pick, poke four holes into the base of pumpkin. This will allow for water drainage. Gently dry the interior of pumpkin using a cloth or a paper towel. Next, spread a coating of petroleum jelly over the interior of pumpkin. This will help to keep the pumpkin from drying out and decaying quickly. Insert mum into pumpkin and keep mum moist (drying out is the kiss of death to mums).
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
A Few Ideas For Fantastic Fall Foliage
Burning Bush- Burning bushes are known for their bright red colour in the fall. The maximum height and width usually spans about 9'x9', making this a larger, deciduous bush. It has a slower growth rate, and requires full sun. It is best pruned in the late fall.
Highbush Cranberry- this shrub is a specific variety of viburnum. It is also noted for its brilliant, deep red fall colour. This shrub usually reaches a maximum of 10-15 feet, making this shrub one of the largest around. The leaf resembles that of a maple, but can considerably vary in size and shape even on the same shrub. It does best in rich soils, and also opts for full sun, however, it can tolerate various conditions. This shrub also produces small red barries, and flowers white in the spring. It is best pruned in the late fall, or very early spring.
Maples - Beautiful Fall Foliage
Flame Amur- (pictured left) - This maple is a rather small tree, with dense, finely textured foliage. Around here, Flame Amur's are usually found as a clump variety. This is one of the few maples that have fragrant flowers, that are a creamy white in the spring.
Red Sunset Maple- This variety of maple can grow an extensive 40-60 feet tall! Throughout the spring and summer, the foliage remains gree, however, in the fall, it produces spectacular red foliage. This particular maple requires full sun, and will grow at a moderate pace.
October Glory Maple- This is a wonderful shade tree, and provides almost instant shade, seeing as it is a very quick grower. It turns from a dark green leaf in the summer to a beautiful orange/ crimson red colour in the fall. This maple will not reach the same height as the Red Sunset, however it will still grow approximately 40-50 feet high.
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Fall Sales!
Sunday, October 7, 2007
Fall Mums
The best fertilizer is the gardener's shadow. - unknown
Annual or Perennial?
A question that is constantly being asked this fall is whether or not mums will come back every year. Unfortunately, it cannot be guaranteed that your mums will come back next year due to weather conditions and the location of the plant. However, if proper care is followed, the chances of your mum surviving through the winter and creating spectacular blooms in the fall is significantly greater!
Growing Fall Mums
The best time to plant mums is in the spring, guaranteeing sufficient time for the roots to establish. In the early spring, feed the fall mums with compost (see sept 21- importance of composting), as well as giving them a boost of fish emulsion every two weeks to help push out multiple blooms. Let them grow in the early spring, and when they reach about 12-18 inches tall, prune them back 6-9 inches so that they are half of their original length. This severe pruning will force the plant to become more dense by producing more shoots. Warning: If you neglect to prune back the mum, the flowers will only grow on the top portion of the mum, which will prevent an abundance of blooms.
The trick to growing fall mums and promoting multiple buds is to keep them in constant sunlight, as well as thoroughly watering them twice a week.
Note: Mums are one of the few plants that can be successfully transplanted (see sept 16- transplanting: a how to) while they are in full bloom, provided that it is done carefully and adequate water is given after the move.