Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Farewell to Pesky Dwellers!

I know that if odour were visible, as colour is, I'd see the summer garden in rainbow clouds. -Robert Bridges

Working at a nursery and garden center, I recieve many phone calls in regards to a few annoyingly common insects found in customers gardens. In response to this extensive questioning, I can only hope this will provide you with an easy answer, and hopefully, a solution!
Scale: A Popular Pest!


Scale insects are round, oval, or flat. In this area, (Windsor- Ontario) scaling is usually a dark brown, flat insect. This species will lay their eggs in May, but will not hatch until mid June. Most commonly, in this area, euonymous plants are prone to scaling. If the insect is not found in its early stages on your plant, the survival of the plant progressivly declines.


Solution: Be sure to trim off the damaged branches of the plant in which masses of scaling may occur. This will help decrease the chances of the scaling effecting any surrounding plants. I am always the first to recommend the cheapest solution: soapy water! Mixing soap, and a little H2O and misting it onto the leaves of the infected plant will help create a waxy coating, warding off these pesky insects. Of course, you can also use dormant oil, or even insecticides, including our most populars: Malathion and Sevin.

The Dreaded Japanese Beetle

Over the years, Japanese Beetles have become an increasing concern, rapidly reproducing, and causing considerable damage to infested gardens. The first signs of the beetle were found in 1937, and were eliminated by the use of insecticides. However, in the 1950's they appeared again, and now infest 120 countries around the world.


Japanese Beetles can feed on 300 different species of plants, and are usually found in groups, feeding on the surface of the foilage and chewing out the tissue between the veins. They usually start to emerge in late May, early June.









Solution: A tried, tested and true home-made recipe:


ingredients:


- 5 large rhubarb leaves


- 1 hot chili pepper


- 1 garlic clove





Step 1- Place these ingredients in boiling water, and let them seep (like tea!) over night.


Step 2- Strain, and put the water into a spray bottle.


Step 3- Spray this solution over the infected plants.





Note- make sure to boil enough water to cover all affected plants- Bye-Bye Beetles!!!






Aphids: How to Take Action!



Aphid colonies are most likely found on the underside of leaves, on the tips of branches, and on new growth. In our area, aphids are mostly light green, appearing almost white. Our most common tree in which aphids attack are usually tri-colour beeches. Aphids suck the sap from the leaves, stems, and even roots, causing damage. Yellow spots, or spots on the leaves that are discoloured, are usually signs that your tree or plant has been affected by aphids.

Solution: A similar solution to control Scale can also be used to control Aphids. Soap and water can be useful in controlling Aphids, as well as dormant oils, and insecticides. For infestations severe enough to threaten the health of a tree, you may want to consider the services of a licensed pest control operator.

**Hopefully these solutions that I have provided for you will be beneficial next year when dealing with those detestable insects! These insects that I have listed are three of the most common insects, however, I will probably list more insects and possible solutions in the near future!

Helping you keep your garden beautiful,
Megan









































Friday, September 21, 2007

Preparations Before You Start Planting

Green fingers are the extension of a verdant heart. -Russell Page


There are a few important things to remember when preparing an area for a garden.


Placement of Your New Garden

A very important thing to consider is the location of your new garden. Keep in mind the amount of sunlight this area will offer. It is a little more difficult in finding shade only plants than plants that can take full sun. Another important thing to consider when choosing an area is the moisture content of the soil. Certain plants can take a bit more water than others, however they are somtimes hard to find.


The Composition of Your Soil


It is always important to check the type of soil that you will be working with before making any hasty decisions. You can determine the composition of your soil by digging in a few areas and checking with the simple grip of your hand. If the soil breaks apart freely in your hand, your soil may be a bit too sandy. If it is diffiult to break apart, you may be working with clay soil.




Tip: Another way that you can check your soil composition is by simply placing a clump of soil in a jar filled with water and letting it settle over night. By the morning, you should see three distinct layers: sand at the bottom, then silt, and then a layer of clay at the top.



Preparing Your Soil


The best way to prepare your soil is adding organic matter.


  • Sandy Soil- in order to neutralize sandy soil, add a combination of topsoil, peat moss and compost.



  • Clay Soil- in order to neutralize clay soil, add a combination of peat moss, compost and sand. Sand will help break up clay soil and allow for proper drainage to occure.

A Layer of Landscape Fabric To Help Fight Those Pesky Weeds!


Landscapers often opt for rolls of landscape fabric to lay down before adding your topsoil.


The advantages of landscape fabric include:



  • Weed control

  • Permits air and water movement through the soil.

  • Helps to maintain even soil temperatures.

  • It can not only be used around shrubs and trees, but also around stepping stones, decks, retaining walls, and stone sidewalks.

Note: Landscape fabric will not prevent all weeds. It is only a barrier in preventing germinating weed seeds into landscaped areas.





Edging: A Garden's Curves add Character


In most cases, an industrialized (four inch) black plastic edging is used to separate your lawn and your planting bed, or in some cases, can even be used between a driveway and a lawn. It is easy to use because it adapts to curves, corners, angles and straight lines. Stakes (either metal or plastic) are placed in the side pocket of the edging and are used to hold it in place.

Installation- Dig a small trench about five inches deep (if you are using standard 4" industrialized edging). The edging goes smoothley into this trench, making sure the rounded edge is facing up. Next, simply fill in the sides with topsoil, making sure that the edging is at least 1/2 of an inch above ground level.


Mulch


Laying down mulch not only makes the appearance of your garden beautiful, it helps in the growth of your plants too! Mulch is usually spread 3-4 inches deep in order to help in the prevention of weeds. Mulch also preserves soil moisture by reducing evaporation and helping to prevent erosion from weather conditions. It also helps to moderate soil temperatures by keeping the soil cooler in the summer, and helps to prevent root damage in the winter. It is made up of organic matter, and eventually decomposes, adding nutrients and natural fertilizers to the soil.


The Importance of Composting: Gardening for the Environment's Greater Good!


A great idea to participate in helping to keep the environment healthy is a simple process called composting. You can easily think of composting as natures way of recycling. It biodegrades organic waste and turns it into a valuable organic fertilizer. Participants in Composting: These may include food waste, manure, paper, leaves, grass trimmings,wood,feathers, crop residue, even sewage sludge.






























Sunday, September 16, 2007

Transplanting Trees: A How To!


Transplanting: to uproot or replant; move from one location to another.


Now is an excellent time to start transplanting!


**Note: Before starting, measure the diameter of the tree trunk six inches above soil level. For every inch in diameter, the root mass should equal to one foot in diameter.


Uprooting


Most trees are best moved with a ball of soil surrounding the roots. Begin by digging a trench in a circle around the tree, leaving the appropriate root zone diameter (one foot for each inch of trunk in diameter). To easily achieve this, use a garden spade to cleanly cut the sides of the trench and roots encountered. Begin to slope the trench inward, toward the tree, and cut beneath the ball until it is free. Using the spade beneath the ball as an aid, lift the tree from the hole and place it onto a length of burlap. (Tip: if burlap is unavailable, an old tablecloth will do the trick!). Tie the fabric securely, using a wheelbarrow to carry the uprooted plant to its new location.


Re-planting


The new hole should be at least three times wider than the spread of its roots, but NO deeper. Remember: loosened soil settles, therefore the roots should rest upon undisturbed soil to ensure that the tree will not be planted to deeply. Caution: Many trees are killed by deep planting, especially in heavy soil! Therefore, elevating the tree a few inches above ground level will ensure the success of the newly transplanted tree.




Tips to guarantee the life of your plant!


  1. It is extremely beneficial to lay mulch over the planting area. Mulch helps to retain moisture, hinder unwanted weed growth, and add nutrients to the soil. Be sure to lay mulch at least two inches deep, but NO more than four inches deep.

  2. Leave at least five inches between the tree trunk and the mulch in order to deter fungus, diseases and rodents.

  3. Water slowly and thoroughly immediately after planting! After the initial watering, be sure to hydrate your tree at least once a week for five minutes post planting.

  4. Be sure to transplant deciduous trees ONLY when they are dormant (early spring or late fall).

  5. Evergreens can not only be transplanted in the spring or the fall, but also in the late summer after their active growth is completed.

  6. REMEMBER: The number one cause of suffering plants is over watering! Be sure to keep the watering to a minimal (once a week).

  7. Tree stakes are extremely recommended for the first two years, or until the roots of the newly planted tree are established.

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