Deck the Halls With a Few Handy Hints

He who has not Christmas in his heart will never find it under a tree. Roy L. Smith.

With Christmas just around the corner, I thought I'd bring in a little holiday spirit with a few useful hints for your Christmas decor. I have been recently transfered to Ruthven Nursery and Garden Center for the winter season for their annual 'winter wonderland'. From Christmas trees, to garlands and wreaths, to the most gorgeous display of ornaments you can find from here to Stratford, it's amazing some of the helpful hints you can pick up!

Potted Christmas Trees

An interesting alternative to an artificial or cut Christmas tree, is a potted live evergreen. Having the option of planting the tree after the

holidays as opposed to having to pitch it in the garbage, not only helps to save the beautiful evergreens, but the money you spent on it too. At Ruthven nursery, or other Christmas tree suppliers, a variety of potted Christmas trees are available for purchase, usually including Frasier Firs, Douglas Firs, and Blue Colorado Spruces (to name a few). If this option interests you, there are a few things that you need to consider before purchasing one:

Be sure to dig your hole in November so that you can easily plant your Christmas tree when the ground is hard and frozen. See former blog "Preperations Before you Start Planting" in order to get a keen sense on preparing the soil for adequate root growth in the spring.

You must have an area within your home for your potted Christmas tree that provides cool temperatures, far away from any direct heat. This helps with any seasonal confusion the tree might have if kept in warm temperatures during a winter season.

Be sure to have a large drainage tray that the tree can sit in when you water it during this time. Remember to water it every day until planted.

Make sure that the indoor lights you use on a live plant produces little heat.

This is not a difficult thing to find, in fact, most indoor lights produce minimal heat.

Have a Holly Jolly Christmas

Another interesting idea is trimming holly bushes during December. If you grow your own female and male holly bushes, do some quick trimming before the holiday season, and bring in some of the branches for a little home decor. To prolong the use of any fresh evergreens that you may bring inside your home, spray Wilt-Pruf before bringing indoors. This clear spray coats the evergreens and prolongs their life to get you through the holiday season.

Christmas Wreaths

It is believed, in Christmas traditions, that hanging Christmas wreaths on the door will keep all the evil things away. As with most Christmas decorations, the wreath symbolized Jesus' birth and God's grace. Evergreen wreaths are the most popular, providing a splash of colour among the (usually) white landscape. Pine boughs are the basis of many Christmas wreaths. You can pick up pine boughs at a local garden center, home center, etc. Combine it with dried grape vines, fake apples, and bay leaves (or magnolia leaves have been the new 'hit' this year), for a nature-inspired wreath. Include rosemary boughs for an effective and holiday fragrance. Or, as is popular with our frequent costumers, traditionally design your wreath, adding ribbon and ornaments for a classic and elegant look.

Of course, the holidays puts us in the mood to try out some new home decor ideas, placing us in a "too strapped for cash" position. Hopefully some of these natural and innovative ideas help make your home beautiful and classic for the Christmas holidays, and a little more "cost friendly" too. Happy decorating!

A Little Spring Before Winter

Gardening requires lots of water - most of it in the form of perspiration.- Lou Erickson

To get away from these chilly Novemeber nights, and to satisfy my gardening woes, I decided to post a little something to help drive us through these winter months and give us gardeners something to look forward to!

A Growing Guide for Roses

I have a few great tips that will make your roses prosper in the spring. First, it is essential to have the perfect location for your roses. Be sure to choose an area in full sunlight, a location with approximately 6-8 hours of sun per day, as well as one that is open and airy required for good air circulation. Plant your roses in well-drained soil, seeing as roses do not like "wet feet!" You must dig the soil to a depth of eighteen inches, and then cover the ground with approximately two inches of peat moss as well as a layer of composted manure. At the time of planting, be sure to add 100 grams of 12-4-8 Rose Food to one square meter. (rememeber: roses are heavy feeders of magnesium and iron, nutrients necessary for chlorophyll production and leaf development).

NOTE: Climbing roses should not be placed on a north-facing wall.

Planting of Rose Bushes:

Dig a hole of sufficient size to accommodate the root system of the container rose. Next, gently remove the rose from the container, being careful not to injure the root system. Be sure to set the plant deep enough so that after the soil is leveled, the graft union is one and a half centimeters below the soil level. Then you can back fill the soil firmly around the root system. After planting, water the plant well to set the soil firmly around the roots. You can add two inches of mulch on top of the soil, but be sure to shallowly cultivate the mulch between the plants to help retain soil moisture around the roots. Do not plant rose bushes any closer than eighteen inches apart.

Fertilizing Roses:

After the growth is well under way, feed roses with one or two feedings of Rose Food during the growing season. This should be evenly distributed over the soil surface and worked into the soil with a cultivator. The last feeding should be done no later than the end of July to reduce the chance of winter-kill. During the growing season, rose plants showing deficiencies in their leaves or generally lack vigor, can be fed with a fertilizer of 24-18-16 (Miracle Grow for Roses or Iron Plus) for immediate recovery.

Pruning Bush Roses:

Newly purchased roses usually do not require pruning at planting time. During the growing season, do not let the blooms go to seed. Faded flowers should be removed immediately. Early in the summer, cut the flowers with a long stem, leaving only two to three leaves close to the old wood. As the season advances, cut the flowers with a shorter stem. Each spring, after the roses are removed from their winter protection, the following pruning procedures should be carried out:

1. Remove all broken or injured branches back to solid healthy wood.

2. Cut off all weak growth, leaving only four or five of the healthiest, strongest branches.

3. Then cut back these branches to five to six inches long, leaving two to three buds on each branch. The cuts should be made clean and slanted one inch above the buds.

Remember: A strong pruning in the spring will result in bigger and more roses during the season. Roses which are not well pruned will produce masses of blooms in June, but very small and very few blooms later in the season.

Winter Protection

Of course, I must throw in a bit of winter talk in this post! However, it is important for your roses to have efficient protection during the winter months.

- for Hybrid Teas and Floribundas: When the weather turns very cold, before the heavy frost, the roses should be cut back to approximately two feet from the crown (knee height). All the leaves should be cleaned away and the soil should be built up against the crown of the plants. Rose collars are very handy for this purpose, as they will hold the soil around the crown.

- For Climing Roses: Climbing roses should be built up around the crown as well. In very cold locations, (unfortunately Canada), it is recommended that the branches be tied together and protected by covering with burlap or similar material. Do NOT use plastic.

- For Shrub Roses: Hardy shrub roses do not need the special pruning and winter protection as described for the other roses.

**If there is any other question about growing roses, feel free to post a question in the comments, and I'll be sure to answer you back. Hopefully, this guide will help keep you on the right track! --Good Luck Fellow Gardeners--

Keeping Your Trees Warm for the Winter

Bulb: potential flower buried in Autumn, never to be seen again.

To Wrap or Not

During the winter season, it is believed that in order for your evergreens to make it through the winter, they must be wrapped in layers of burlap. I'm here to tell you that this is only a myth, and instead, multiple layers of burlap can actually hurt your trees rather than help. However, as in all cases, there are just some exceptions where burlap, or other preventative measures, can help, and I'm here to guide you through the necessities of winter care.

Instances Where Burlap or Other Winter Care is Needed

1. Any newly planted evergreen is prone to "winter-burn" and should be covered in burlap for the winter.

2. If your trees or shrubs are planted close to the road or driveway where they may fall in close proximity to salt spray, they should be covered with at least two layers of burlap.

3. In some instances, such as protecting your mums for the winter, cover the root area of the plants with at least three inches of mulch.

4. Use plastic tree guards to protect the plant from any animal searching for bark to knaw on during the winter. Make sure that the tree guards go higher than the level of snow, seeing as this may pose the problem after a snowstorm.

5. A very popular product, called wilt-proof can be used on any broadleaf evergreen, such as azaleas and rhododendrons. This product ensures the saftey of your plant through the winter months by coating the leaves with a thin layer of wax coating.

Of course, these are just a few things that you may do when prepping your garden for the winter. However, do not stress out if your garden has been feeling a little neglected lately and you don't have time to get out there before the frost. Most of the time, us gardeners tend to let nature take its course. It helps build anticipation for the next season!

A Little Halloween Decor

Hold on, man. We don't go anywhere with "scary," "spooky," "haunted," or "forbidden" in the title. -ScoobyDoo

Walking around the neighbourhood as a child, I can distinctly remember the excitement and anticipation of finding a house with the most haunted aesthetic appeal. Ignoring the "undressed and boring" neighbours, I would climb the steps in a frantic fury, hoping the candy was as good as the proposal.

Maybe this is why, as a student still living at home, I beg my mom to take part in the festivities of Halloween, hoping she'll turn our home into the dream of every costume-wearing child roaming the streets on October 31st.

**Remember- the first thing that attracts the costumers on Halloween night is the front yard and garden of your home!

Halloween Ideas for your Garden

1. Transform you haven into a graveyard (if only for a couple weeks). An important thing to remember is that halloween is ALL about lighting and a whimsical touch.

note: leaving the garden un-tended for a good month can give your future "graveyard" an even eerier look with long, unkept grass and fallen leaves.

Tombstones can be purchased at your local wal-marts, grocery stores, and even some garden centers. Caution tape, spider webs, skeletons, and shovels can add suspense and allure to your gravesite.

2. Pumpkin carving can prove to be a very easy and traditional way to attract witches, gouhls, goblins and ghosts! Picking your pumpkin is a very important part in achieving your jack-o-lantern look. You need to choose a pumpkin that will suite what you want to carve on it. Pick pumpkins that are uniformly orange (which indicates that it is ripe), as well as pumpkins which have no bruising or visible damage (bruised pumpkins have a shortened life span).

**Make sure when transporting your pumpkin that you do NOT hold it by the stem because it can easily break.

3. Halloween Wreaths (using vines from the garden!)

Using a thick, tightly wound grapevine is a perferable and cheap way to spread halloween cheer! Just wind the vines into a hoop shape and tie it off with a twine. However, grapevines are not the only vine that is useful for halloween wreaths. Bittersweet vines can also be used for halloween wreaths, providing great yellow/orange colour and an attractive peice for your front door.

4. Pumpkin-and-mum arrangement

Items needed:
Large pumpkin
Mum in nursery pot
Disposable cloths or paper towels
Petroleum jelly
Carving items for pumpkin such as a kitchen knife, jar lid or ice pick

Steps:
Place the base of the nursery pot over the pumpkin and gently score the edges of the pumpkin to mark the width of the mum pot. Cut out the top of the pumpkin using the scored edges from the width of the mum pot, discarding the cap and the stem of the pumpkin. Scoop out the insides of the pumpkin. (Note: You may wish to save the seeds to toast later.) Using the ice pick, poke four holes into the base of pumpkin. This will allow for water drainage. Gently dry the interior of pumpkin using a cloth or a paper towel. Next, spread a coating of petroleum jelly over the interior of pumpkin. This will help to keep the pumpkin from drying out and decaying quickly. Insert mum into pumpkin and keep mum moist (drying out is the kiss of death to mums).

Hope you use some of these ideas to create the eerie, festive halloween garden for those who roam your front doorstep!

A Few Ideas For Fantastic Fall Foliage

Bulb: potential flower buried in Autumn, never to be seen again. - Author Unknown

Fall Shrubs for Fall Colour
Burning Bush- Burning bushes are known for their bright red colour in the fall. The maximum height and width usually spans about 9'x9', making this a larger, deciduous bush. It has a slower growth rate, and requires full sun. It is best pruned in the late fall.

Highbush Cranberry- this shrub is a specific variety of viburnum. It is also noted for its brilliant, deep red fall colour. This shrub usually reaches a maximum of 10-15 feet, making this shrub one of the largest around. The leaf resembles that of a maple, but can considerably vary in size and shape even on the same shrub. It does best in rich soils, and also opts for full sun, however, it can tolerate various conditions. This shrub also produces small red barries, and flowers white in the spring. It is best pruned in the late fall, or very early spring.

Maples - Beautiful Fall Foliage

Flame Amur- (pictured left) - This maple is a rather small tree, with dense, finely textured foliage. Around here, Flame Amur's are usually found as a clump variety. This is one of the few maples that have fragrant flowers, that are a creamy white in the spring.


Red Sunset Maple- This variety of maple can grow an extensive 40-60 feet tall! Throughout the spring and summer, the foliage remains gree, however, in the fall, it produces spectacular red foliage. This particular maple requires full sun, and will grow at a moderate pace.

October Glory Maple- This is a wonderful shade tree, and provides almost instant shade, seeing as it is a very quick grower. It turns from a dark green leaf in the summer to a beautiful orange/ crimson red colour in the fall. This maple will not reach the same height as the Red Sunset, however it will still grow approximately 40-50 feet high.

Fall Sales!

Why are husbands like lawn mowers? They are difficult to get started, emit foul smells, and don't work half the time.- Author Unknown

Fall Sales!

Across Essex County, people are flocking to nurseries and garden centers to take advantage of sales on all plant materials. At the end of the year, nurseries will put their plant stock on sale in order to make room for storage in the winter. The more trees and shrubs they can get rid of, the better!

During the spring and summer months, garden centers provide at least a one year warranty for all plant material, however, they usually trade in that warranty in order to give you a better deal. So, if you don't have the strongest and "luckiest" gardening thumb around, you might want to consider doing your shopping in the spring!

Fall is a wonderful time to do some planting. You can plant right up until the ground freezes. However, if you are planting in the fall, do NOT use fertilizer. Trees and shrubs are preparing to go dormant for the winter, so you don't want to promote any new growth during this time.

Most nurseries fall sales are offering 40-50 percent off of their fall stock, saving you a pretty penny, and leaving you with a great sense of bargaining accomplishments!

Remember, take advantage of the sales during this time, plant material goes quickly!

Fall Mums

The best fertilizer is the gardener's shadow. - unknown




Annual or Perennial?


A question that is constantly being asked this fall is whether or not mums will come back every year. Unfortunately, it cannot be guaranteed that your mums will come back next year due to weather conditions and the location of the plant. However, if proper care is followed, the chances of your mum surviving through the winter and creating spectacular blooms in the fall is significantly greater!






Growing Fall Mums


The best time to plant mums is in the spring, guaranteeing sufficient time for the roots to establish. In the early spring, feed the fall mums with compost (see sept 21- importance of composting), as well as giving them a boost of fish emulsion every two weeks to help push out multiple blooms. Let them grow in the early spring, and when they reach about 12-18 inches tall, prune them back 6-9 inches so that they are half of their original length. This severe pruning will force the plant to become more dense by producing more shoots. Warning: If you neglect to prune back the mum, the flowers will only grow on the top portion of the mum, which will prevent an abundance of blooms.


The trick to growing fall mums and promoting multiple buds is to keep them in constant sunlight, as well as thoroughly watering them twice a week.





Note: Mums are one of the few plants that can be successfully transplanted (see sept 16- transplanting: a how to) while they are in full bloom, provided that it is done carefully and adequate water is given after the move.

Hope these hints and suggestions help make your fall mums the most beautiful bunch on the block!

A Guide To Pruning

Plants give us oxygen for the lungs and for the soul. -Linda Solegato

The fall season is an excellent opportunity to break out the shears! Late fall (as the plants are going dormant) and early spring (before any new growth appears) are the best times to prune!

Why Prune?

Trees should be pruned for purposes that will benefit the tree, such as: pruning to remove dead, diseased and/or damaged branches, and maintaining as well as increasing structural strength. Pruning is also important to improve a tree or plant's natural beauty, as well as to ensure an abundance of flowers and/or fruit.

note** - look out for water sprouts and suckers arising from the bases of trees, often from the understocks, or grafted, or budded trees.

Remember- Pruning may be necessary as a safety precaution- keeping traffic views open, providing clearance for sidewalks, etc.

Although pruning a tree back when being transplanted is commonly thought of as being beneficial, it can actually do more harm than good (stunting a tree and damaging root growth).

Pruning Tools!

Hand pruners- good for cutting 1/2 an inch to 3/4 of an inch diameter branches.

Loppers- Long handled shears which are used on branches 2 inches in diameter.

Pruning Saw- May be used on branches with a diameter greater than 2 inches, however it makes a coarser cut.

Pruning: A How To

When removing a side branch, cut the limb back to the trunk or to a larger branch. Never leave a stub (it will die back and will become prone to diseases and insects). To make a proper cut, look for the branch collar- the slight swelling at the base of the branch- and the branch bark ridge- a roughened line of bark left on the trunk as the branch and the trunk grow longer. The cut should be at an angle, leaving just the branch collar. To remove part of a central trunk or main branch, choose a major side branch and cut just above, parallel to the branch bark ridge. The side branch chosen should be no less than half the diameter of the removed trunk.

Farewell to Pesky Dwellers!

I know that if odour were visible, as colour is, I'd see the summer garden in rainbow clouds. -Robert Bridges

Working at a nursery and garden center, I recieve many phone calls in regards to a few annoyingly common insects found in customers gardens. In response to this extensive questioning, I can only hope this will provide you with an easy answer, and hopefully, a solution!

Scale: A Popular Pest!

Scale insects are round, oval, or flat. In this area, (Windsor- Ontario) scaling is usually a dark brown, flat insect. This species will lay their eggs in May, but will not hatch until mid June. Most commonly, in this area, euonymous plants are prone to scaling. If the insect is not found in its early stages on your plant, the survival of the plant progressivly declines.

Solution: Be sure to trim off the damaged branches of the plant in which masses of scaling may occur. This will help decrease the chances of the scaling effecting any surrounding plants. I am always the first to recommend the cheapest solution: soapy water! Mixing soap, and a little H2O and misting it onto the leaves of the infected plant will help create a waxy coating, warding off these pesky insects. Of course, you can also use dormant oil, or even insecticides, including our most populars: Malathion and Sevin.

The Dreaded Japanese Beetle

Over the years, Japanese Beetles have become an increasing concern, rapidly reproducing, and causing considerable damage to infested gardens. The first signs of the beetle were found in 1937, and were eliminated by the use of insecticides. However, in the 1950's they appeared again, and now infest 120 countries around the world.


Japanese Beetles can feed on 300 different species of plants, and are usually found in groups, feeding on the surface of the foilage and chewing out the tissue between the veins. They usually start to emerge in late May, early June.









Solution: A tried, tested and true home-made recipe:

ingredients:

- 5 large rhubarb leaves

- 1 hot chili pepper


- 1 garlic clove





Step 1- Place these ingredients in boiling water, and let them seep (like tea!) over night.


Step 2- Strain, and put the water into a spray bottle.


Step 3- Spray this solution over the infected plants.





Note- make sure to boil enough water to cover all affected plants- Bye-Bye Beetles!!!






Aphids: How to Take Action!



Aphid colonies are most likely found on the underside of leaves, on the tips of branches, and on new growth. In our area, aphids are mostly light green, appearing almost white. Our most common tree in which aphids attack are usually tri-colour beeches. Aphids suck the sap from the leaves, stems, and even roots, causing damage. Yellow spots, or spots on the leaves that are discoloured, are usually signs that your tree or plant has been affected by aphids.

Solution: A similar solution to control Scale can also be used to control Aphids. Soap and water can be useful in controlling Aphids, as well as dormant oils, and insecticides. For infestations severe enough to threaten the health of a tree, you may want to consider the services of a licensed pest control operator.

**Hopefully these solutions that I have provided for you will be beneficial next year when dealing with those detestable insects! These insects that I have listed are three of the most common insects, however, I will probably list more insects and possible solutions in the near future!

Helping you keep your garden beautiful,
Megan

Preparations Before You Start Planting

Green fingers are the extension of a verdant heart. -Russell Page

There are a few important things to remember when preparing an area for a garden.

Placement of Your New Garden

A very important thing to consider is the location of your new garden. Keep in mind the amount of sunlight this area will offer. It is a little more difficult in finding shade only plants than plants that can take full sun. Another important thing to consider when choosing an area is the moisture content of the soil. Certain plants can take a bit more water than others, however they are somtimes hard to find.

The Composition of Your Soil

It is always important to check the type of soil that you will be working with before making any hasty decisions. You can determine the composition of your soil by digging in a few areas and checking with the simple grip of your hand. If the soil breaks apart freely in your hand, your soil may be a bit too sandy. If it is diffiult to break apart, you may be working with clay soil.

Tip: Another way that you can check your soil composition is by simply placing a clump of soil in a jar filled with water and letting it settle over night. By the morning, you should see three distinct layers: sand at the bottom, then silt, and then a layer of clay at the top.

Preparing Your Soil

The best way to prepare your soil is adding organic matter.

• Sandy Soil- in order to neutralize sandy soil, add a combination of topsoil, peat moss and compost.




• Clay Soil- in order to neutralize clay soil, add a combination of peat moss, compost and sand. Sand will help break up clay soil and allow for proper drainage to occure.

A Layer of Landscape Fabric To Help Fight Those Pesky Weeds!

Landscapers often opt for rolls of landscape fabric to lay down before adding your topsoil.

The advantages of landscape fabric include:

• Weed control


• Permits air and water movement through the soil.


• Helps to maintain even soil temperatures.


• It can not only be used around shrubs and trees, but also around stepping stones, decks, retaining walls, and stone sidewalks.

Note: Landscape fabric will not prevent all weeds. It is only a barrier in preventing germinating weed seeds into landscaped areas.

Edging: A Garden's Curves add Character

In most cases, an industrialized (four inch) black plastic edging is used to separate your lawn and your planting bed, or in some cases, can even be used between a driveway and a lawn. It is easy to use because it adapts to curves, corners, angles and straight lines. Stakes (either metal or plastic) are placed in the side pocket of the edging and are used to hold it in place.

Installation- Dig a small trench about five inches deep (if you are using standard 4" industrialized edging). The edging goes smoothley into this trench, making sure the rounded edge is facing up. Next, simply fill in the sides with topsoil, making sure that the edging is at least 1/2 of an inch above ground level.

Mulch

Laying down mulch not only makes the appearance of your garden beautiful, it helps in the growth of your plants too! Mulch is usually spread 3-4 inches deep in order to help in the prevention of weeds. Mulch also preserves soil moisture by reducing evaporation and helping to prevent erosion from weather conditions. It also helps to moderate soil temperatures by keeping the soil cooler in the summer, and helps to prevent root damage in the winter. It is made up of organic matter, and eventually decomposes, adding nutrients and natural fertilizers to the soil.

The Importance of Composting: Gardening for the Environment's Greater Good!

A great idea to participate in helping to keep the environment healthy is a simple process called composting. You can easily think of composting as natures way of recycling. It biodegrades organic waste and turns it into a valuable organic fertilizer. Participants in Composting: These may include food waste, manure, paper, leaves, grass trimmings,wood,feathers, crop residue, even sewage sludge.

Transplanting Trees: A How To!

Transplanting: to uproot or replant; move from one location to another.

Now is an excellent time to start transplanting!

**Note: Before starting, measure the diameter of the tree trunk six inches above soil level. For every inch in diameter, the root mass should equal to one foot in diameter.

Uprooting

Most trees are best moved with a ball of soil surrounding the roots. Begin by digging a trench in a circle around the tree, leaving the appropriate root zone diameter (one foot for each inch of trunk in diameter). To easily achieve this, use a garden spade to cleanly cut the sides of the trench and roots encountered. Begin to slope the trench inward, toward the tree, and cut beneath the ball until it is free. Using the spade beneath the ball as an aid, lift the tree from the hole and place it onto a length of burlap. (Tip: if burlap is unavailable, an old tablecloth will do the trick!). Tie the fabric securely, using a wheelbarrow to carry the uprooted plant to its new location.

Re-planting

The new hole should be at least three times wider than the spread of its roots, but NO deeper. Remember: loosened soil settles, therefore the roots should rest upon undisturbed soil to ensure that the tree will not be planted to deeply. Caution: Many trees are killed by deep planting, especially in heavy soil! Therefore, elevating the tree a few inches above ground level will ensure the success of the newly transplanted tree.

Tips to guarantee the life of your plant!

1. It is extremely beneficial to lay mulch over the planting area. Mulch helps to retain moisture, hinder unwanted weed growth, and add nutrients to the soil. Be sure to lay mulch at least two inches deep, but NO more than four inches deep.


2. Leave at least five inches between the tree trunk and the mulch in order to deter fungus, diseases and rodents.


3. Water slowly and thoroughly immediately after planting! After the initial watering, be sure to hydrate your tree at least once a week for five minutes post planting.


4. Be sure to transplant deciduous trees ONLY when they are dormant (early spring or late fall).


5. Evergreens can not only be transplanted in the spring or the fall, but also in the late summer after their active growth is completed.


6. REMEMBER: The number one cause of suffering plants is over watering! Be sure to keep the watering to a minimal (once a week).


7. Tree stakes are extremely recommended for the first two years, or until the roots of the newly planted tree are established.

Related Links

• http://www.gardenline.usask.ca/trees/moving.html


• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transplanting


• http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/trees/f1147w.htm